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A heavy wind is kicking up ocean swells approximately \(10 \mathrm{ft}\) high (from crest to trough), with wavelengths of \(250 \mathrm{ft}\). (a) Find an equation that models these swells. (b) Graph the equation. (c) Determine the height of a wave measured \(200 \mathrm{ft}\) from the trough of the previous wave.

Short Answer

Expert verified
(a) Equation: \(y(x) = 5 \sin\left(\frac{2\pi}{250}x\right)\); (b) Graph: periodic wave; (c) Height at 200 ft: \(\approx 2.939\) ft.

Step by step solution

01

Understand the Wave Equation

Ocean swells can be modeled by the sine function: \(y(x) = A \sin\left(\frac{2\pi}{\lambda}x + \phi\right)\). Here, \(A\) is the amplitude, \(\lambda\) is the wavelength, and \(\phi\) is the phase shift.
02

Determine the Amplitude

The amplitude \(A\) is half the height from the crest to the trough. For a height of \(10 \text{ ft}\), the amplitude is \(A = \frac{10}{2} = 5 \text{ ft}\).
03

Determine the Wavelength

The wavelength \(\lambda\) is given as \(250 \text{ ft}\).
04

Write the Equation

Using the values found, the equation for the swells is \(y(x) = 5 \sin\left(\frac{2\pi}{250}x\right)\).
05

Graph the Equation

To graph the equation \(y(x) = 5 \sin\left(\frac{2\pi}{250}x\right)\), plot the sine wave with amplitude \(5\) and wavelength \(250\). Note the periodic pattern.
06

Calculate the Height at 200 ft

Using the equation, calculate the wave height at \(x = 200\): \(y(200) = 5 \sin\left(\frac{2\pi}{250} \times 200\right)\). Simplify to \(y(200) = 5 \sin\left(\frac{4\pi}{5}\right)\).
07

Compute the Sine Value

Using a calculator, find \(\sin\left(\frac{4\pi}{5}\right) \approx 0.5878\). Hence, \(y(200) = 5 \times 0.5878 \approx 2.939\).

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Key Concepts

These are the key concepts you need to understand to accurately answer the question.

Amplitude
When discussing waves, especially sinusoidal ones like ocean swells, the term 'amplitude' is essential. Amplitude refers to the maximum distance a point on the wave—such as the crest or the trough—moves from its central point. In mathematical terms, it is the peak value of the function. More simply, it's half the height from the top of the crest to the bottom of the trough.
In the given exercise, the ocean waves have a total height of 10 feet from crest to trough. Therefore, to find the amplitude, you simply divide the total height by two. This gives an amplitude, or maximum deviation from the wave's midpoint, of 5 feet.
Understanding amplitude is crucial as it helps you measure how "tall" the waves are. This is an essential factor as it directly influences how dynamic or powerful the wave appears. In practical terms, the greater the amplitude, the more energy the wave carries.
Wavelength
Wavelength is a key concept in wave theory, representing the distance between two peaks (crests) or troughs in a wave. It's essentially the length of one complete wave cycle. In mathematical modeling of wave functions, the wavelength \(\lambda\) is vital.
In the context of the given problem, the wavelength is specified as 250 feet. This length is a measure of how far apart the waves are spread out from one another along the surface of the water.
Why is wavelength important? The wavelength determines how frequently the waves occur over a given distance. Longer wavelengths mean waves are spaced farther apart, while shorter wavelengths indicate that waves are closer together, impacting the wave's potential effect on boats or coastal structures.
Wave Height
Wave height refers to the total vertical distance from the crest of the wave to the trough. In essence, it measures how tall the wave appears from the lowest point in the trough to the highest point at the crest, making it a full measure of the wave's vertical size.
In the exercise example, the wave height is given as 10 feet. Knowing the wave height is important as it directly relates to the force or energy that the wave can exert. In practical terms, with coastal engineering or maritime navigation, wave height is a critical data point for safety and operational planning.
While wave height and amplitude are related, they are not the same. Amplitude is half the wave height and represents the maximum displacement of the wave, whereas wave height includes both the upward and downward swings of the wave from peak to trough.

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Most popular questions from this chapter

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